The mighty, rocky Dolomites, severe guardians of the Italian border with Austria, was the region for 33 members of the U3A to explore during the balmy, dying days of summer. Above the tree line, soaring blocks of grey rock, blunt topped or spiked like cathedral spires, dominate the landscape, dwarfing the villages on the low, fir lined slopes and in the valleys below.
This is Austrian Italy, in language, architecture and food, although mercifully Italian gelato still reigns supreme, rippling in tubs in café windows.
The villages whose wooden chalets declare their mountain identity, host skiers in winter and hikers in summer. Rushing rivers cascade past walkways lined with cafes, their clients drinking Aperol spritzes in the mid-morning sun. A slow meander along the tree lined Southern bank of the River Passirio in Merano leads past the Metal, Art Nouveau designed Ponte della Posta, which the wearier tourist can cross to access more rapidly one of the cafes on the Northern bank. The river path is gentle terrain so the slightly hardier can stay on the Southern bank until the next bridge, the stone built 17th Century Ponte Romano, or keep strolling to the Ponte della Gilf, the last convenient bridge across the narrow rushing river, to the opposite bank with its sun drenched, welcoming cafes.
The upper reaches of the Dolomites are bare but a drive through the fertile plains passes apple orchards, flouting their abundant autumn crops, or vineyards, leafy but, in late September, stripped of the grapes which are already fermenting in the French oak barrels of the area’s vintners. A tasting visit to the family owned Cantina Martinelli which, after a long period of closure, has in recent years begun to produce its estate wine, allowed the group to sample a trio of the wines for which they are again becoming known.
This is an area where the summer drought is not immediately apparent. The hills are spiked with lush green fir trees and Lake Caldaro, its water bright turquoise in the sun, gleams through the forest. A visit to the village of Limone, its shops abundantly stocked with everything lemon related, was followed by a breezy boat ride across Lake Garda, to the village of Riva.
A shout out to the staff who made the visit so effortlessly enjoyable for their guests. Fausto, the owner of Hotel Paganella, in the village of Fai della Paganella, was the consummate generous host, providing an open bar and after dinner entertainment every evening. The staff, too, treated the guests with graciously smiling efficiency, even joining in a conga through the dining room and kitchen. British reserve was not the order of that evening.
Joan Young was the group leader on the U3A side and the first port of call for any enquiries or problems that may have arisen during the tour. She was never entirely ‘off duty’ and her role was greatly appreciated.
Wendy Viney, the tour manager with Success Tours, and Massimo, the driver were ever helpful and knowledgeable, providing a wealth of information on all aspects of the area and on Italian life in general. Miraculously Wendy managed to herd the large party, always keeping to the timetable and without losing anyone en route. With 33 people wandering off in all directions this was quite a feat. Delivering the party to Venice airport, with an en route lunchtime stop and a final gelato at the village of Marostica, Wendy insisted on staying until the party had checked in and was safely and contentedly on its way home, after six days exploring the majestic region of the Dolomites.
Sharon Colback
